Ephesus

Ephesus lies just outside the town of Selçuk, spread along a hillside. There are two entrances: the Upper (South, or Magnesia) Gate and the Lower (North) Gate. Starting at the top and walking downhill saves you the climb; if you drove, work out beforehand how you will get back to your car, by taxi or with a tour.

Walking down, you pass the State Agora, the small Odeon and Curetes Street, lined with the Temple of Hadrian and the public latrines. At the bottom stands the two-storey facade of the Library of Celsus, and from there the Marble Road leads to the Great Theatre and the Harbour Street. Beside Curetes Street are the Terrace Houses (Yamaç Evler), a roofed excavation of wealthy Roman homes with wall paintings and mosaics. They need a separate ticket, and many visitors say they are the highlight. According to the official museum page, the main ticket also covers the Ephesus Experience Museum. Allow three to four hours including the Terrace Houses; two hours is enough for a quick walk through.

Most of the finds are in the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk, which is worth a separate stop. The site is large with little shade: in summer arrive early, and bring a hat and water. The marble paving is slippery, so wear shoes with good grip. Tour coaches and cruise groups crowd the main street from late morning. Check the hours on the museum page.