Three Days in Cappadocia

Cappadocia is a region, not a town. It spreads across Nevşehir province and into Aksaray, Niğde and Kayseri, and the sights look close on a map but buses between them are infrequent. This route assumes a hire car or a car with driver. Göreme, Uçhisar and Ürgüp are all good bases. The order is simple: day one around Göreme, day two south to the underground cities, day three further west to Ihlara.

Day 1

If you want to watch the hot-air balloons at dawn, any hillside around Göreme will do; you do not need to book a flight to see them. Start the day at Uçhisar Castle, a tall outcrop of rock hollowed into rooms. From the top you see Pigeon Valley and the whole landscape as far as Göreme. The steps are steep and the summit is windy; an hour is enough.

A few minutes' drive takes you down to the Göreme Open-Air Museum. Rock-cut churches, refectories and monks' cells are packed into a small area. The painted churches are tiny inside, so arriving early means less queueing at their doors. Allow two hours and do not touch the frescoes. The site lies within the wider Göreme historical area, part of a UNESCO World Heritage property.

In the afternoon drive north-east to Zelve. It feels different from Göreme: a village inhabited until the mid-twentieth century, spread over three valleys, with few paintings and much more walking. The earth and sand paths get slippery; stay on the marked trails and do not climb into the carved rooms. Allow two hours.

Day 2

Head south from Nevşehir town on the road to Niğde. The first stop is Kaymaklı Underground City, then Derinkuyu Underground City a little further down the same road. Both are carved into soft volcanic tuff, with ventilation shafts, stables, storerooms and levels linked by passages that could be sealed with round rolling stones. The passages are low and narrow, you will often walk bent over, and a small daypack is easier than a large rucksack. It stays cool underground even in midsummer, so bring a light jumper. If enclosed spaces bother you, stay on the upper levels and turn back. An hour to an hour and a half each is enough; leave the afternoon free.

Day 3

Leave early for the Ihlara Valley in Aksaray province, a canyon cut by the Melendiz stream, with churches carved into its walls. From the main entrance a long staircase takes you down to the valley floor, where an earth path follows the water. Give it half a day and save some energy for the climb out. On the way back, the Monastery Valley at Güzelyurt makes a short extra stop.

Practical notes

The painted churches are small and fragile; keep your voice down and do not use flash. Some sites close one day a week; check the hours on each page. The Müzekart, the Turkish state museum pass, may cover the state-run sites; confirm on the official list. See the Nevşehir page for the rest of the region, and if you arrive via Ankara or Konya, two days in Ankara and a day in Konya connect well.